(07-04-10) In the Caribbean Sea, between the Dominican Republic (formerly called “La Española”) and the British archipelago Turks and Caicos (according to legend, the first place trod by Colon in his trip to America) they are the Silver Banks. Even though sunsets dye waters in silver, they are named after the silver ingots spread in waters as a result of the tragic sinking in previous centuries.

    Only three ships have the license to stay in this area observing cetaceans during their annual appointment in the Silver Bank. We were staying in the best of them, with no doubt, the Turks and Caicos Aggressor II. Hardened Captain Amanda knows perfectly well the treacherous waters of the Sanctuary, and it is not easy to avoid the coral heads having the draught of the T&CA II, mostly with choppy sea, I assure you.

    We had already been in the predecessor T&CA I, in 2002, in one of its last trips to the Banks. The new one surprises us because of the big size and amenities.

    After setting sail in the midnight from Puerto Plata in the Dominican waters, a beautiful sunrise welcomes us to the Silver Banks. The ship tied up protected from the –sometimes- rough sea, by the reef that appears when low tide. It would be there for the whole week. Staying on board is very comfortable. There is no need to take any pill to sleep or “survive”.

    We were all pager to approach them, since few meters far from our ship we could see small dorsal fins and the steam of their exhalations was carried by a light breeze towards us.

    Before allowing us to board the “zodiacs” Conqueror and Predator the Captain gives us a briefing about these big mammals and how to interact with them safely and without scaring them. It is important not to jump noisily to the water, not to kick or make a noise in the surface when we swim, not to chase or block them. The new regulation does not allow us to surround them, the whole group has to be in the same side of the humpback whale, so they have us controlled and can move very relaxed.

    Separated into two equal groups we embark the inflatable ships, more maneuverable, fast, ecological and silent than our mother-ship over 30 meters long.

NEED TO BE A LITTLE TRAINED TO FOLLOW THEM

    Humpback whales, except when they are relaxed, do not stop and keep swimming at a slow speed, but constantly. So, we need to be a bit trained to prevent cramps in the legs. I even recommend using free-diving fins if we are used to use them.

    The first day, Sunday, water is turbid. We go down twice with a mother and her baby after having enjoyed their jumps out of the water. The mother was undoubtedly training her “little” baby. I am not very satisfied with the images. Fortunately we have many days ahead.

    Monday is a bit disappointing as we do not enter the water. Whales are not trained obviously and swimming is worth the effort only when there is a specimen or a group that is “receptive”. On the contrary, it lasts very little. Out of the water the activity does not stop. Tails and fins hit the water and there are jumps in the distance in all directions.

    If taking pictures staying in small ships whit water moving is hard, imagine what recording a video can be, even using a stabilizer. We are eaten up with envy because one of the assistant of the “competence” has found a cooperative whale and we see them enjoying it…

    In the afternoon we meet a baby with the tail bitten or hurt that has a frenetic activity, despite the wound it does not stop hitting the water and offers us a priceless view. He is accompanied by a male and a female. The male, which is common, tries that we do not approach the group to have the female free for him more than to protect them, because he may even not be the father.

    On Tuesday a wind over 25 knots welcome us. It makes shipping impossible. In the afternoon we can when it slow down and we get a big group of whales. The male gives us a bubble curtain, trying to “scare us”. Poor…

    To break the “routine” seeing so many whales, I ask the pilot to take us to the shipwreck to take some pictures. I see that in these almost ten years it has deteriorated quite a lot. I could swear that one of the masts was up in our first visit. It is a pity, because it is an extraordinary reference for the navigation and also it was very photogenic.

    On Wednesday I feel it is going to be our day. We meet, after trying with some groups, a baby and a mother with her bodyguard: a huge male. Silently, we glide overboard. Great, water is clear and blue. As they are very calm, we take it in turns to rest and reposition.

NOTHING COMPARES TO FLOAT NEXT TO A “LEVIATHAN”

    We stay for some hours with them, and everybody uses up cards, tapes and strength, but my mate’s faces show everything. Nothing compares to float on water next to a “Leviathan” with a small eye that constantly observes you while her baby goes up and down to breathe, and, from time to time, curiosity wins and it approaches the small group of human beings spellbound by its awkward movements. But we have to keep an eye on the tail, as it does not control distances yet, as well as sharp turns and “skids”.

    When we are “almost” satisfied, suddenly three young male whales appear on the sandy bottom 20 meters deep, swimming as black torpedo to the “familiar” three. The “bodyguard male” confronts them and after a small skirmish the three impetuous suitors disappear. In case they come again, we have to go out of the water. Is in those moments when a potentially difficult situation can be. You know how “love” among animals weighting many tons is.

    Today it is Thursday, wind flows strong again. We are in the middle of the Ocean, so we relax onboard the ship seeing in the computer the pictures we took yesterday. In the afternoon wind drops and we hang around once again. We meet many whales but they are not very cooperating, while the others in the other inflatable ship have been luckier and then they explain to us the great show they have seen with a restless and playful baby. We have had to be content with some jumps, a whale doing spy hoping and some tails hitting frantically the water.

    On Friday the sky is grey, while the other days have been sunny. It is time to come back to the harbour. The T&C Aggressor casts off and with many eyes controlling the coral that like mushrooms appear everywhere; the ship points the bow to Puerto Plata. Behind us, the rusty wreck of the Greek cargo remains, and also our mates for some day, the humpback whales. Their blowing say good by friendly. They know that the next week other small creatures will come to look them up.

    On the upper deck of the boat I “spend” my last pictures with them. Wherever I look at, I see steam, a dorsal fin or a tail hitting the surface. The last show lasts almost until getting the coast of the Dominican Republic. I am already planning our coming back. I am humpback whales-aholic, I confess.