(31-08-10) Tenerife island is dominated by the imposing Mount Teide, the highest volcano in the entire Atlantic. Under its top there are some of the most characteristic landscapes and places of the archipelago, as well as a very interesting coastline for lovers of scuba diving.

    It is possible to dive around the whole island, but, as happens in other places, the areas in the southwest are the best for diving. Their position in the lee of the trade winds makes the sea conditions be excellent for most of the year. If we add to that a remarkable clarity and temperatures between 17º and 24º C, we will be in a perfect environment to practice diving.

    The latitudinal location of the Canary Islands makes them host an interesting sub-tropical fauna, where species of the Mediterranean and others more tropical are mixed. Along with groupers and breams there are trumpet fish, triggerfish or parrotfish, creating a true spectacle for the diver.

    The presence of large animals like amberjacks, different species of rays and even sharks makes these dives more spectacular. There are also cetaceans, many in these waters; we will talk later about them.

    Now, we will focus on one of the most typical areas for diving in the island, which would start just at the southern tip of the island, led by the lighthouse at Punta Rasca, until getting the cliffs Los Gigantes, further north.

Moray eels everywhere

    In this route we cannot forget one of the most classic points in this area: the commonly known as Cueva de las Morenas or Palm-Mar. It is located in the surroundings of the port Los Cristianos and offers the possibility to take great pictures.

    At 12 m. a slope begins. It falls to 25- 30 m depth. In the area there is a large cavity like a mouth, after which the dive is named. Just at the entrance there is an image of the Virgin and a cross in memory of one of the divers dead in the exploration of the cavity.

 

    In any case, there is no need to enter the cave, in whose entrance we can see some specimens of the spectacular anemone Telmatactis. If we pay attention we will see some of its classics tenants, the ubiquitous crab spider, or different types of shrimps.

    The most interesting area is the walls of the underwater cliff, full of little caves and hollows. They are the perfect shelter for a huge population of moray eels of several species and sizes. We can find some great Gymnothorax bacalladoi, common moray eels and the always impressive fangtooth.

    The animals are perfectly used to divers (sometimes too much), as feeding has been practised here for many years. Because of that, we can approach a lot to them, and it is common to see them completely out of their dens, which is rare in normal conditions.

Bastard grunts

    One of the best times of diving in the Canary Islands is when we enjoy the shoals of bastard grunts. The bastard grunt (Pomadasis incisus) is a small fish with a colourful design in silver and yellow that forms groups in large shoals, sometimes of thousands of specimens. They are named after the noise they emit when they are frightened.  

    In this area of Tenerife we can make quite dives with shoals of this species. In the Bufadero or near the lighthouse, we can see some of the most numerous. It is always interesting to cross through the group and see how they separate and close again after us, and feel we are at the very centre of the shoal.

    Near this area we find the remains of the Condesito, a former merchant ship loaded with concrete that sank in these waters when it hit some rocks. The passage of time has made its job, and several storms have mistreated her, scattering the remains. The best preserved area is the stern. Around it we can see a rich fish fauna with different species, from the typical trumpet fish, to the always curious megrims.

In the kingdom of coral

    Without going too far from the lighthouse area, we find a truly magical place. Known by some centres as Mancha Blanca, we can enjoy a dreamy landscape. This is a deep dive, where the current can be very strong sometimes, and where the decompression is assured. For this, it is recommended only for experienced divers and with good sea conditions.

    The water here is very clear, so we can see perfectly the bottom, which is about 20 m deep. Our dive master Lino, from the Club Rincón de Arona, marks the course. We descend gradually, until a cliff where the dizzying sensations give way to the thrill of flight over the deep blue.

    Gradually, black coral (Antipathes wollastoin) begins to appear, which is endemic to the Macaronesian Islands. Despite its name it has a bushy and greenish appearance, brown if we illuminate it. Sometimes, this fact creates confusion among non-experienced divers. The black area, used in jewellery, is the internal skeleton of the animal, not at first sight.

    As we descend the coral covers all the rocks, up to reach a fully upholstered arc, which creates a truly surreal environment. Several groupers, keeping distance, accompany us during the dive. A quite big specimen accompanies us. There is no doubt that the depth is their best defense against attacks by fishermen.

    Unfortunately, time goes fast and also our saturation, so we need to begin a slow ascent to the surface after the inevitable stops, but not before enjoying the majestic flight of an eagle ray that gets lost in the blue. These moments will serve to rewind the wonderful images we have been able to see in this hidden kingdom of coral.  

The appointment with the turtles

    Perhaps one of the most popular dives in the island, and maybe in the entire archipelago is the one that takes place in the Puertito de Adeje. This is a small bay near the famous Playa Paraíso. It is an area of great biological interest where some conservation projects are being developed.

    Its access is easy and comfortable both from sea and land for divers. At first sight, we find a shallow sandy bottom with some rocks that can seem of no interest, but they are the refuge of seahorses and porcelain crabs. But in any case, the protagonists of these waters are others: the turtles. In this area there are up to 6 specimens of green turtle (Chelonia midas) of different ages and sizes.

    These turtles are used to the numerous presences of divers. If we add to this the feeding, we find animals very confident to humans, a factor of great attraction for divers and, hopefully, it will never be a problem for turtles.

    Unlike other places, they are animals that approach the divers, creating a unique dive. The sensations are unique, enjoying so close of their presence. Turtles do not run away from the diver, on the contrary, we must be careful to avoid them scratching the houses of our cameras, such is their proximity.

    In any case and for the peace and quiet of the animals, it is recommended not to grab or touch them, they will come by themselves. It is impressive to look at them in their eyes, as it seems that there is a melancholy in them, maybe they miss the seas and oceans they met in the past, since they are very long-lived animals. We all have to protect them and responsibly enjoy this underwater Canary paradise that is the Puertito de Adeje.

Text and pictures: Juan Carlos García