(14-09-10) In this article of the series “Discovering” Galicia we travelled to the island Sálvora, which presides the entrance to the Ria de Arosa and offers a richness and life that captivates the visitor. It is a place desired by many but available to few.

    Some weeks ago a group of friends went to dive in one of the most desired places in the Ría de Arosa. It is Sálvora Island. Undoubtedly, one of the most desired dive points for any diver and a luxury available to few.

    Since the dive centre Hydronauta called some few fortunate for a dive trip to the island, my little head began to think for searching the best way to transmit our feelings to all of those that have not had the opportunity yet.  

    I’ve been searching in books, the net, I’ve talked to experts, and none has given me a piece of advice good enough to let you know, all you in this blue planet and any language speakers, with any socio-cultural level, what Sálvora Island means to me and to many in History.

    So, I’ve reached the conclusion that the best way is just being myself and explaining that to you in the simplest way we all know.

The opposite sex

    Imagine you are 16, or 28, 30 or even 100 years old –heart does not depends on age-. Sálvora is that girl every boy look at and talk about, and all want to know. The sweet dream of everybody that just a few have been able to feel. That one young and old people talk about and none is indifferent.  

    That one who lasts for decades in tourists’ memory. That one who, just looking at, your legs tremble and you pray to God every night for having the opportunity to get something more than a look. That one who, every time to try to visit, is overwhelmed by storms. That one who likes to be admired but never let to be approached. That one who has something, everything, and you will never find any in other place. That is the island you think of when you are diving in other beaches.

    It is that one you look at every day and you are never tired. That one that, when you know it is a good time to explore, your duties prevent you. That one for which you would leave any other dive without thinking, knowing that maybe the sea won’t let you reach it and you will leave with nothing. That one is Sálvora Island and has been like this for centuries, and it can be notice by the disputes it has generated in History (see box).

How to dive in SÁlvora

    Very easily. The first thing to do is to contact a dive centre in the Ria de Arosa. They will be in charge to apply for the needed permits. If you are really interested in diving here there are many centers that organise dives in this island: one in Vilagarcía de Arousa, Bahía-sub in El Grove…       

    Try to program your trip a bit early, minimum one week, as only 125 people are allowed to enter the island per day.

    Any centre you choose, for distance or friendship, have your dive licence scanned, much better if your level is advanced, your insurance and medical certificate (this one is not always requested, but just in case).

    I have gone with dive centre Ribeira for two reasons: it is close to my house and they have organised the dive.

The Island

    The trip to the island is short if you are in good company, despite the fact that it is difficult to be in a day with waves from the deep sea shorter than 1 meter. These waves are long, with no crests and move little the boat.

    One in the island you have to show your documents, which are checked by the guards in the berth, where the Mermaid welcomes happy.

 

    It becomes the first unforgettable images we will remember for years. Although formerly there where a great variety of terrestrial animals in the island, such as mules, horses, rabbits or chickens, it is now house for many gulls and cormorants that nest among its rocks and green pastures.

    The island, which was the cause of wars and lawsuits since 820 until this decade, now is in peace and calm and one can relax and rest a few of the moving trip before the dive.

THE BOTTOM “LAPEGAR”

    Lapegar is a false bottom in the SW of the island. It causes one of the most impressive marine disasters in the Ria: the shipwreck of Santa Isabel.

    That wreck took place at 2 am during a heavy gale on January 2, 1921. Several weeks later, bodies of the 213 shipwrecked continue appearing many miles far from the place of the accident.

    There was nothing of the Santa Isabel, just a sad story that marked many people’s lives, but diving here has some attraction.  

    The bottom begins at 0 m. and goes to 40 m. The recommended gas mixture is EAN 28, but anyone can choose.

    We are in open sea. If you get lost here… it is better not to think about it. On the contrary, the clarity of the water is higher than in the inside the estuary and the temperature lower, between 12º C –at 40 m. deep- and 16º C on the surface.

    Currents here are strong and we must know where we are all the time and never lose our sense of direction to be able to get back to the boat.

    As always, we began the dive at 38 m., the deepest area, to ascend progressively along one of the completely vertical walls.

    I always watch if I see any sheet or metal remain owing the S. Isabel. Here we meet a great variety of life, nudibranches and fish. Our camera is ready to see one of those huge pelagic everybody talks about.

 

    The walls here have not many caves, so every thing is exposed. Upper, gorgonians, not so abundant as in the estuary but big, and among them little fish take refugee, such as   rainbow wrasse or gobies, which are the most common tenants in the surroundings.

    Upper, the colourful walls are covered with spirographs and jewell anemones of all colours, which help reward the fact that we had to get up really early and the trip to reach this place.

 

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    At these depths time is very short and becomes gold, as the computer will soon begin to warn that your time is shorter and decompression longer, about 10 minutes long, really boring. I told you by experience, but it has a positive and a negative sides. The positive one is that you can take advantage of it to take the last pictures of the day, and, if you are lucky, you will meet that animal of which you didn’t have a picture.

    I say goodbye today. I hope you have enjoyed it and you know that you can send me your comments about my articles to my email. That’s all folks!

 

 

Text and pictures: Jacobo Alonso
jacoboalonso@horminor.com
http://fotosub-jacoboalonso.blogspot.com