But, certainly, walking along the quiet sandy streets of La Caleta del Sebo, among its white houses and old volcanoes, is a good idea. This is the only inhabited place here. It is still possible to enjoy the true peace and the tranquillity of the place, and, of course, to discover the rich, full of life waters.

diving in the rÍo

    The Río is the name given to the arm of sea that separates Lanzarote from La Graciosa. When the wind is calm, it seems that this is actually a river flow and not a rough sea. Here we find perhaps the best known point in the area: Veril de las Anclas, which is perpendicular to the islands as if they somehow wanted to be joined under the sea. This is not a deep dive, the water is usually clear and the white sand on the bottom contributes to the sensation of brightness.

    Diving here is very entertaining since every corner is occupied by a tenant: black murena fish, ducks, locusts, spider crabs, while in the water Chromis limbata, small mackerel and others swim without concern.

    As we move forward we meet huge anchors, called admiralty anchors, intimately linked to the history of the island. With the rise of the transatlantic trade after the discovery of America, this whole area becomes a refuge for pirates. Boats were hidden in the Río while the pirates were waiting for their prey. The consecutive skirmishes that took place with the Royal Navy and the gradual discovery of this hidden hideaway made that many times the pirates had to hastily flee by cutting out the anchor.

THE ENCHANTED SHARMP FALL

    Montaña Clara is a small island located between La Graciosa and Alegranza, where volcanic materials are lighter coloured than usual. This is the reason of tits name. We are near the Punta de las Aguas, an integral reserve zone within the uses of the marine reserve, which means that here, unfortunately, we can not dive.

    Forward, there is a sharmp fall located in its highest point, about 27 m high. It is therefore a deep dive, only suitable for experienced divers.

    After an exciting descent into the abyss we can enjoy the surprise that appears before our eyes. We face a real submarine garden, the garden of gorgonians. The peaks and walls of this submarine tower are filled with these large cnidarians (Gerardi savaglia). When turning on the lights, the show is absolute coloured: red, yellow, pink and violet fill this magical underwater forest.

    But the surprises do not end here: several specimens of orange coral (Dendrophyllia Rame) can also be observed, and black coral (Anthipathes wollastoni) covers the walls in the areas that are most exposed to the current. The brightness of the sun and the transparent water allow us to almost see the bottom, located more than 70 m. deep. It is amazing.

under the water of alegranza

   The farthest of the Chinijo islands is Alegranza. It is home of one of the largest volcanic calderas around the Canary Islands. Its diameter sizes over 1.5 km. It has the only lighthouse in the vicinity and paradoxically it is private. At last, after a long journey, we arrive at our destination, the shore of Alegranza or of the Trabuco.

    The bottom is at 28 m. deep. The submarine cliff is parallel to the coast, surrounded by sand as if it was a small ridge that emerged from the desert, so life is concentrated there. Several big mere fishes appear in front of their lairs. It seems that they are guarding them curious and suspicious of the strangers. Horse mackerels and medregals patrol in the submerged cornice searching preys, while the enormous Diplodus Cervidus Cervidus and the Psedolepidaplois scrofa hide in the hollows.

    But the show continues: the large sand are full of eels and many rays all sized run into hiding when they detect our presence, burying themselves in the bottom. Meanwhile, half water, several Myliobatis aquila swim on our side with the elegant and leisurely flutter.

journey to the center of the earth

Alegranza also hides some treasures in its rough relief, such as the volcanic tubes that have become caves due to the different speeds of lava. In the Canary Islands they are called “jameos.”

The “jameo” can be entered by diving, swimming, snorkelling, or even by a little boat. There is a big hole in the rocky coast of the island. Slowly coming into it, the tube strengthens and the boat almost touches both sides of the walls. Water becomes green and there is more darkness. At the same time we see a light point in the distance.

At last the tunnel finishes and we flow into an idyllic lagoon with a small beach inside. It is a relaxing moment far away from de big telluric forces that caused this natural wonder.

La Burrera is a point located in the north of La Graciosa, in front of Montaña Clara. Its landscape is typical, 20 m. deep, dotted with big blocks that host many caves and passages. Here, unlike in other areas, dense vegetation with numerous species of algae grows.

What stands out is the size and abundance of species. The Mycteroperca fusca are abundant. They swim quietly around us. We see several yellow "masters" in a single dive. The name of the place comes from the proliferation of African stripped grunts (Parapristipoma octolineatum) that appear in the caves.

Shoals of sarge fishes, sunfishes and goldstrieme fishes darken the sky when the swim. Meanwhile, in the caves, Heteropriacanthus cruentatus with big eyes and Scorpaena porcus lynnaeus study us and mere fishes hide in the most hidden depths of the cavities. This is a little show of the enormous potential that this still wild and unknown corner of the Canary Atlantic accumulates.

Text and Photo: Juan Carlos García