(25-10-10) The Azores Islands, located in the middle of the Atlantic, surprise due to the quality and huge variety of the underwater life, large and small. A place where the underwater adventure is still possible.

   The name Azores is usually associated to the famous anticyclone that uses to be in that area. But these nine islands offer some extraordinary opportunities for marine life, large and small. As it happens other times, the relative proximity (about three hours) does not mean a special knowledge, but the opposite thing.

A privileged position

    The Azores islands (Açores in Portuguese) are located in a central position in the Atlantic Ocean, about 1,400 km far from the European continent. They are nine islands distributed in three groups: western, central and eastern. They are volcanic islands appeared from the depths of the oceanic dorsal that are in this area.

    It is an active volcanism, as probed by the recent eruptions (1957-58 the last one) and the presence, on and under its waters, of different phenomena associated to this orogeny, such as their hot springs, fumaroles,  geysers, etc. Their landscapes of black lava are awesome in Pico island, where the proud volcano rises 2,351 m, being the highest mountain of Portugal, and its silhouette is a permanent lure for the eye.

    That geographical location creates some warm climatic conditions and a high humidity degree, which gives the islands one of their identity signs: the green colour. It is not only the relict forests of laurel, but pine forests and grasslands. If we add to this its mountainous relief and its extensive livestock, we will believe sometimes that we are seeing a Swish landscape and not the one in the middle of the Atlantic.

    It is this central position in the middle of the ocean, resides the influence of the current of the Gulf, what gives the archipelago some very special oceanographic characteristics. In fact, the islands emerge from the seabed creating the perfect basis for marine life. The figures surprise: there are about 600 species of fish, almost 2000 invertebrate and 24 sorts of cetaceans. Spectacular figures for these latitudes.

    The currents bring tropical fauna, and large pelagic animals see this place as the right one to rest or reproduce in their migrations. At the same time, the large depths will favour the presence of squids, the favourite of one of the emblems of the archipelago: sperm whales.

The large underwater mountains

    A very important fact for fishing in the past and diving nowadays is the presence of large underwater mountains. They are underwater islands that have not emerged or maybe have in ancient times, which are now submerged platforms. This makes easy the settling of populations of pelagic animals, some rare to see by a diver. They are complicated dives only suitable for experienced divers, as they are located in the open sea with long trips and far from the coastline, with currents and deep.

    The reward for the effort is excellent: large groups of amberjacks, Atlantic bonito or barracudas, and even the presence of different sorts of sharks or the exotic white marlin. But undoubtedly one of the stars will be the presence, almost guaranteed, of small manta rays genre Mobula (specifically Mobula tarapacana). This great animal is quite numerous in these waters, with the regular presence of many specimens that do not use to run away because of the presence of divers, a real reward to the effort.

    Probably, the most emblematic mountain here is the Princesa Alicia, located 45 miles southeast the island Faial. Other important places are D. Joao de Castro, 35 miles far from island Terceira; Dollabarat, 20 miles northeast Santa María; and Formigas Islands, 20 miles northeast the same island.

In the waters of Faial

    We begin our dives in the Azores, in the island Faial. From the port of Horta we go to Boca das Calderhinas. It is a group of two small volcanic craters inside which it is not possible to dive because they are an integral reserve. We dive just in one of the endings along a wall that goes parallel to the coastline.

    Just when we jump into the water we feel the “reserve effect” because of the great amount of fish we see and their size. We can say that we have never seen such big parrotfish, really huge. Many holes give refugee to a crowd of scorpionfish of all imaginable sizes, as well as black morays and some duckbill catfish, and bearded fireworms. Some more deep we can see a pair of specimens of grouper quite large, a proof of the richness and health of the area.

    Quite close to here, over the coastal cliff, there are some big caves where the clear water let us see some spectacular light effects and find other classic inhabitant of these waters, such as the triggerfish, which give a tropical mark to the dive.

Diving in Pico

    Without reaching the large mountains we says above, we can make an interesting dive in the Baixa do Sul, located in the channel between Pico and Faial. Some huge steps help us go down to lower levels. Its location is good for currents and groundswell; but also for meeting shoals of barracudas, amberjacks, manta rays or even ocean sunfish, which, unfortunately this time, do not appear.

    Other interesting point in the island is the diverse underwater arches that volcanic eruptions and marine erosion have created. For example we have the well known do Pocinho, which show a spectacular underwater landscape where the clear water le tus enjoy the great underwater arcade.

    Many little fish surround us during the dive: damselfish, small serranidae… what makes the dive look like a real aquarium. When we are saying goodbye to the dive a quick group of dolphinfish (Coryphaena hippurus) go to our side. A sample of the continuous surprises these waters offers to us.

Sao Jorge

    The last island we visit this time is the nearby and long Sao Jorge island, which highlights because of its cliffs with formations of laurel and spectacular coastal lagoons.

    Unfortunately, the weather conditions are not good enough to dive where we want, so we have to do it close to the coast and the port. It is surprising as well. This time we go to the called Coral Cove.

    It is important the presence of black coral (Antipathella wollastoni) quite shallow. In this case, at 24 m depth we meet huge black coral branches that serve as a porch to the cave. Inside, we can explore it with no problems and observe some different kinds of prawns and goldcrests.

Thanks:

We want to thank to the Associação Regional de Turismo (ART)  of the Azores, and specially to Patricia Barbosa for helping make this article.